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Author Topic: Floor tiling  (Read 5353 times)
Nordic
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« on: December 27, 2006, 04:37:27 pm »

Has anybody used a flexi Adhesive such as the one made by 'Unibond' directly onto a wooden floor instead of boarding it over first?

Its claims you can tile directly onto floorboards, chipboard, plywood and tongue & groove.

http://www.makingdiyeasier.co.uk/unibond/tilingonfloors.html
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Matt Harper
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« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2006, 07:06:27 pm »

Hi Nordic
Though I'd never claim to be any kind of DIY expert - I think there could be a few conditions applied to the use of this product - predominantly, the size of the tiles. A timber floor is not really stable and vertical movement is what cracks the tiles/grout once they are down. If the adhesive is 'flexible' as claimed, it will have to tolerate this movement and if the tiles are big (12" square or larger), you could have some breakage.
My entire house has ceramic tile floor, which I laid - but onto a concrete sub-floor not floorboards. I once attempted tiling the kitchen back in my last home. I screeded the floorboards first, but it still turned out to be an utter train-wreck and I ended-up busting it all out and putting down a t&g hardwood sectional floor - a costly lesson. I guess if I'd used heavy quarry tile it might have been OK, but the thickness, weight and cost swayed me.
So on reflection, I'd install a 1/4" treated ply floating sub-floor and put the tile on top - a little more work (and door and kick-board shaving) but a lot more stability....
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« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2006, 08:09:49 pm »

I agree with Matt,

It is a lot easier to lay tiles on a board fixed to the floor boards. You can seal it witha a good pva finish before putting the tiles adhesive down. I have seen tile layed directly on to floor boards and have seen them break on the tile where the joist runs below.

The boards would give you a more stable and level finish to lay the tiles on. But it would raise the level of the floor, which may cause problems with door opening and other things.

Not my idea of fun, but all I can say is use quality products for adhesive and grout and not home brands.

Have fun...............
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« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2006, 08:31:32 pm »

Have to disagree, guys.

I have laid a dozen or more ceramic-tile floors on suspended wooden floors over the past 2-3 years in both kitchens and bathrooms, and not had any complaints (yet??).  Only once did I have to lay a sub-floor, and that was because the boards were so warped it was impractical (read expensive in time and equipment hire) to sand down.  I havn't used the Unibond product, but always use a proprietry brand.  I never use pre-mixed adhesive - always get the powdered variety.  For wooden floors, this is mixed with a (supplied) chemical solution rather than water, and this does not set hard.

Obviously, if there is too much variance in the surface of the wooden sub-floor, then you will get problems.  As a rule of thumb, I allow a maximum of 5mm between the highs and the lows - any more than this then you have to use tons of expensive adhesive.  Also very imprtant - ensure that there are no loose boards. 

In any tiling job (floor or walls), I always use a separate grout - the adhesives that they say you can also use as grout tend to be very gritty, and you don't get such a smooth finish.

Hope this helps Nordic.

Del
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« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2006, 12:00:24 am »

I had problems with it. Tried laying slate tiles onto a wooden floor and it never seemed to stick properly.
Took them all up after a week and put an oak floor down.
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Nordic
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« Reply #5 on: December 28, 2006, 10:13:39 am »

Thanks.....

Project has now been cancelled until Easter or until the whim next hits the wife when she spots me with my feet up drinking a beer and 'Doing nothing'

But for future referance, I have now checked under the carpet and it has infact got chipboarding not floor boards, would this make it more or less suitable to tile directly onto?

(not that I am looking for a shortcut or anything)
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« Reply #6 on: December 28, 2006, 11:47:14 am »


...... would this make it more or less suitable to tile directly onto?



More.  Chipboard, provided it has been kept dry, remains reasonably stable, and doesn't move so much.

As the board surface is very smooth, you will need to 'paint' it with PVA - use a mix of 50% PVA bonding with 50% water.  This will seal the board and provide a good key for the tile adhesive.

Del
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« Reply #7 on: December 29, 2006, 12:00:02 pm »

I've just tiled my bathroom floor onto a new chipboard surface. My local tile shop advised me to glue this orange plastic matting to the chipboard then tile onto that. It was really easy!! I would strongly agree with the use a different adhesive and grout comment.
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Big G
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« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2007, 01:47:41 pm »

Yeah but how long did it take you to finish the job tho mate? Grin

Oh and hi to everyone, been lurking for ages and finally got drawn into this one...it was an imminent visit by Mrs Big G & me to Robbo's that finally got the job done!
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Robbo
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« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2007, 05:18:02 pm »

Yeah but how long did it take you to finish the job tho mate? Grin

Oh and hi to everyone, been lurking for ages and finally got drawn into this one...it was an imminent visit by Mrs Big G & me to Robbo's that finally got the job done!

How very rude!!!
Perfection cannot be rushed
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« Reply #10 on: January 19, 2007, 11:16:44 am »

I'm sure you made an excellent job of it, look forward to seeing it soon Grin Grin Grin
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